Foreword

Not much cycling in the last twelve months except four days in Brittany. I was struggling with an arthritic knee that needed injections but I got into a gym through the winter working with the excellent Roy at FitBox on the Island and the knee pain has gone. I believe the exercise and muscle development have done the trick – fingers crossed.

Given the excitement of that development I entered the Bikingman Alpes Maritimes 500km Race for June. That would be 10,000m of climbing with a time limit of 60 hours.

Training started in earnest late March 2026 which in truth was probably too late and so it proved to be – or perhaps I’m just too old! When I took a hard look at my training numbers compared to a couple of years ago I realised 500km & 10,000m in 60 hours was beyond me so what was needed was another adventure more within my ability.

La Vélodyssée popped up and looked a great option. It runs from Roscoff down the Atlantic coast and finishes at Hendaye on the border bridge with Spain. I decided on a St Malo start. Much easier from the Isle of Wight to jump on the Portsmouth – St Malo ferry. And a bonus considering my fitness – there were very few climbs.

The Bike/Kit

I was riding my Mason Bokeh, a gravel bike with 40mm Hutchinson Caracal Race tyres, tubeless. Comfort is the main objective with a Cane Creek seat post giving a little suspension and Redshift flexing stem. As important was the profile design aero bars, stacked high, that give rest to the hands, a different saddle position and of course a little aero help. I reckon to ride on the aero bars for over 50% of the ride. Main kit carrying was my Tailfin cargo rack and bag with tent and matt in Apidura bags on the front forks. My tent setup weighed 2.1kg and I took it as a backup in case I couldn’t find accommodation. My intention was to find campsite cabins/tents or small hotels along the way. I took two sets of bike riding kit and one set of lightweight casual clothes.

Getting to the start

Living on an Island there is something a bit special about being able to ride the bike from one’s front door and embark on a long distance adventure. I set off on Saturday 20th June and rode to the Fishbourne / Portsmouth ferry mingling with the Isle of Wight festival crowds along the way where my wife, Kate and her daughters and friends were having fun. A short ride to Brittany ferries where I joined a small group of cyclists waiting to board. We had a good chat about our planned adventures. The overnight ferry was calm and docked in St Malo at 0915. Our group of cyclists got a fast lane to the passport control and were through quickly – the French have delayed the new fingerprint process.

St Malo – La Vélodyssée Day One

Turn left out of the dock and across the lock bridge and down the slip alongside the city walls and you arrive at the small ferry – the Bateau to Dinard from St Malo. The ferry was waiting and I arrived in Dinard across the Rance before 1030 and keen to get going south towards the Nantes Breast canal and link up with La Vélodyssée route. I reckon this route is safer than heading out of St Malo on the roads.

A short distance out of Dinard the route picks up the old railway, the Voie Verde, headed south towards Dinan that sits majestically above La Rance and was the first stop for food and drink as the temperature soared close to 40deg.

The route joins the Nantes Brest canal just south of Ploermel and my goal was to get to Redon for the night. Riding the canal path was nice with lots of shade from the trees but with little breeze became tough going.

Arriving at the pretty town of Malestroit it was great to find a campsite alongside the canal with a tent to rent for the night. I decided to stop and having sorted the tent found a super restaurant and some good food and a cool zero beer. A good first day.

Day 1 – 126km with 6 hours in the saddle.

St Malo – La Vélodyssée Day 2

A hot Canal day. Got away by 0630 enjoying the relative coolness of the early morning. Had a chicken burger I saved from the night before for breakfast. Early starts always create a breakfast challenge.

After a couple or hours the town of Redon was a welcome sight where I found a Tabac for coffee and croissant. Got ‘chatting’ to a lovely frenchman, as best one can when neither of us speaks the other’s language. He was riding a classic old Peugeot bike and headed to Rennes. After coffee there followed plenty of stops with the temperature heading to 40deg again.

Eventually I called it a day about 35km short of Nantes having stopped at a lock keepers cottage for food and drink and then found they had a room to rent. It was really tough in the heat and I always find the second day of a ride hard going. The owners were leaving at 8pm and kindly left supper and breakfast in the fridge. I washed my kit which was dry before I went to bed. A hot night.

Day 2 – 107km with 5 hours in the saddle.

St Malo – La Vélodyssée – Day 3

Got going at first light – 0530 – and got some good kilometres along the route before the heat arrived late morning – 40deg on the Wahoo.

The run through Nantes was a bit hectic at morning rush hour.

After Nantes the route headed west along the Loire towards the Atlantic coast and then turned south. The Loire was wide, busy with industry but also beautiful with traditional net fishing along the banks.

I needed plenty of stops in the heat including an hour on a bench with my sleeping matt. I am lucky to be able to take a 20 minute power nap and come back well recovered. Ice water and ice cream were much in demand!

A small waterfront hotel in Pornic was a good place for the night after another long hot day. A busy restaurant had good food and I picked up a cheese and ham panini for breakfast.

Day 3 – 133 kilometers with 7 hours riding.

St Malo – La Vélodyssée Day 4

Start at dawn again to beat the hot day ahead.

Nice riding the coastal back lanes and trails through the Vendee flatlands followed by pine forests.

Needed loads of stops and drank litres (wahoo was up to 44deg ).

Towards the end of the day I got food and hydration a bit wrong and struggled over the last 20km into Sable d’Olonne. I had booked a small hotel just back from the seafront and was lucky that the owner, Paul, was so helpful. He helped me with my kit and put my bike safely in the storage. After a bit of a lie down I found a good place for food and arranged to stay a couple of nights at the hotel and take a rest day.

Big thunderstorm in the evening dropped the temperature a little. Cooler days were forecast for the rest of the week following the rest day.

Day 4 – 133 kms with 7 hours riding.

St Malo – La Vélodyssée – Day 6

Day 5 was a welcome rest day in Sable d’Olonne.

Day six started in much cooler conditions after rain overnight. No climbs today and a following breeze made for quick kilometres. Sunflowers and cornfields between the waterways and ponds were full of birdlife.

Coffee opposite La Rochelle train station and lunch at Rochefort and running into a MacDonalds late afternoon meant I got fuelling right for once. Pine forest cycleway riding took over after Rochefort and I aimed for Royan for the night arriving just as the hotel reception was closing. Bit of a lie in tomorrow because the next move is the 30 min ferry across La Gironde at 0750.

Day 6 – 242km with 10hrs 44m in the saddle.

St Malo – La Vélodyssée – Day 7

Caught the first ferry across the Gironde with a diverse group of cyclists and a bunch of hairy bikers who were headed to a rally. A day of superb riding through the pine forest along the coast.

The beauty of riding this coast is that it can only by accessed on a bike. No roads track the coast and where roads do arrive from inland there are some big carparks, a few campsites and great beaches. My target for the day was somewhere near Cap-Ferret. I tried a couple of small hotels but storing the bike was parking it on the bike racks at the front door! Finally found a super place and the bonus was air conditioning. Showered and sorted I walked into town for food and opted for a supermarket (French supermarkets are so good!).

Day 7 – 136km with 7 hrs riding.

St Malo – La Vélodyssée – Day 8

Another early start with the remnants of last night’s sushi for breakfast. On the road for 0600hrs I had an another day of pine forests ahead but the overnight thunderstorm had left the surface damp and conditions nice and cool in the early morning. Note the two people on top of the dune!

I came across a local Sunday market in Biscarrosse and had a walk through enjoying the unique atmosphere of a French market.

Sunday lunch was a plate of fish and chips – just what was needed! Ice lolly advice – always buy two Callipos! Easy when riding and gives 30 minutes of ice time!

A super day riding with a following breeze passing through holiday seafront towns and villages with a few little climbs – 400m in 8 hours of riding not too taxing!! There were plenty of campsites and I looked to rent a tent but after trying a couple they only allowed a two night stay minimum. The receptionists were incredibly helpful and searched and suggested a small hotel on the shore of Lac Leon. That left just 100km to the finish on the Spanish border.

Day 8 – 171km with 8hrs 30m riding.

St Malo – La Vélodyssée – Day 9

A lazy start from Lac Leon after the hotel breakfast at 0730. Surfaced paths nearly all the way today. The French do cycleways so well.

Bayonne, Biarritz and St Jean de Luz were all busy in the sunshine and good for stops and refreshing. A few more climbs along the way but essentially pretty flat as has been the whole ride. Just as well given the heat.

The final kilometres into Hendaye and the Spanish border was time for enjoyment and little reflection. That mixture of feeling great at completing the big adventure but sad it was coming to the end.

And what a special end of ride it was! Just as I rode over the bridge into Irun, Spain I pulled into a small square to the right of the bridge to find hundreds of Basques in white clothing and red caps about the march and celebrate their victory over the French in the Battle of San Marcial on 30th June 1522. This was the feast day of Saint Martial and the Spanish vowed to honour the saint if they were victorious. That vow has been fulfilled for over 500 years! The parade I saw on the 29th June was the Revisit de Armas – the inspection of arms – held on San Pedro’s day ready for the main event the following day. The women are the company’s Cantinera, traditionally bringing food and drink but now a ceremonial figure of honour.

After the fun of the Basque celebrations I searched for a hotel and treated myself to a couple of nights in a nice one overlooking the marinas and the Spanish mountains in the distance. I had arrived a day early before my booked train back to St Malo.

Day 9 – 124km with 7 hours riding.

Afterword

Nine days, eight riding, and a total of 1176 kilometres were the final numbers of my La Vélodyssée – St Malo start

It felt a very safe ride with the majority on dedicated cycleways and virtually flat the whole way which was easy on the body given the heat in the first four days. I met many friendly people along the way, many riding on e-bikes and taking several weeks for the journey.

My Mason Bokeh which has looked after me for over 32,000kms was a solid as ever. We often have a conversation along the way. I ‘friend’ indeed! Thanks Dom for a great machine and my friend Adrian at Adrian’s bike shop for getting the bike ready.

Thanks also to Roy at Fit Box gym in Newport on the Island. You got me into shape and sorted my knee. I have previously neglected cross training and upper body strength resulting in more pain in my shoulders and neck than my legs. Roy has changed that and I felt good throughout.

Thanks to Kate, my lovely wife for all the encouragement along the way and to Jonny, my cycling son for his advice.

After a day resting in Hendaye I caught an early TGV train to Paris and then on to St Malo. I had a hotel booked within the walls and enjoyed that splendid city for the evening. A Brittany ferry the next morning and then to the Isle of Wight from Portsmouth left 30 odd kilometres to ride home as the sun dropped below the horizon.

Sunset over the Solent